How to Lay Sod to Start a New Lawn

Prepare the Lawn Site

Thorough and proper preparation is the most important factor in long-term success with a sodded lawn. Allow plenty of time for this stage—it may take as much as several weeks.

1. Remove Existing Plant Life

   New sod will not grow on existing grass or other plant life, so the first step is to remove or kill off the existing grass. There are various ways to do this, including simply cutting it into pieces and removing it by hand. Or, you can use a manual or power sod cutter (available at tool rental centers) to slice off sections of the old lawn down to the roots.

   An easier, though more time-consuming way, is to use a broadspectrum spray herbicide (such as glyphostate) to kill off all vegetation over the area where the sod will be laid. But it may take multiple applications spaced over two to four weeks to fully kill off grass and weeds. But once killed, this dead plant material can simply be churned into the soil with a tiller.
   

2. Clean and Grade the Site (If Needed)

   Rough construction sites will likely need to be cleaned of rubble and trash, and you may need to perform some grading to level out low spots

   This step is usually not necessary if you're simply removing old lawn grass prior to laying new sod, though it is possible you might want to use this opportunity to solve any drainage issues or create gentle contours if your landscape plans call for it.

3. Till, then Rake

   Using a power tiller (available at tool rental outlets), churn up the entire lawn site. This will help further level out the site and loosen plant roots. It is best to make at least two passes of the tiller, alternating directions, to fully break up the soil.

   After tilling, rake out the site and remove loose vegetation and any stones or debris loosened by the tiller. You may find it necessary to rake out quite a bit of material, especially if you are sodding over an existing lawn where the level needs to be lowered to meet adjoining sidewalks or driveways. This loose material can be bagged up for disposal.

4. Add Topsoil (Optional)

   For best growth, a turf lawn needs a layer of good topsoil that is about 6 inches thick. If your site does not already have this, then it's a good idea to modify the soil by spreading additional topsoil evenly over the site and churning it in with another pass of the tiller. This is most likely to be needed if you are creating a new lawn on a construction site covered with rough fill.
   

   Tip

   When adding purchased topsoil, it's a good idea to also blend in an organic amendment, such as compost or peat moss. A garden supply retailer who delivers topsoil can often blend in these amendments before delivering the load of topsoil.

5. Add Amendments, Organic Material

   Your soil test may suggest specific amendments such as sulfur or agricultural lime to adjust soil pH, or nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium to rectify nutrient deficiencies. Spread these granular materials over the site in a thin layer, using a drop spreader.

   A starter fertilizer, which is high in phosphorus but has lower levels of nitrogen and potassium, is an excellent choice for new lawns, especially if you don't have a soil test to guide you more specifically. Phosphorus is especially helpful, as this nutrient helps roots get established.

   It's also a good idea to spread out organic material, such as peat moss, compost, or a commercial soil conditioner, which contains a blend of organics, nutrients, and enzymes designed to improve soils.

6. Till in the Amendments

   Make another thorough pass with the tiller, which serves to churn in and blend the soil amendments, and further break up the soil so it has a loose, friable texture that will allow the grass roots to penetrate.

7. Smooth the Site

   Rake the soil with a bow rake to remove any remaining stones, sticks, or large clumps. If the area is quite large, you can do this with a drag mat, also available at rental centers. Make a second raking pass over the entire area with a leaf rake.

   Compress the site with a lawn roller to achieve a level, fairly firm surface. The lawn site should be firm enough so you can walk on it without sinking in more than 1/2 inch. But do not over-compress the soil.

   Tip

   Once the preparation steps are done, it's best to move immediately to laying the new sod. If your schedule requires you to wait, make sure to rake the site again just before installation if the soil has become too hardened. Sod will begin to dry up and die after about 24 hours sitting rolled up on a pallet, so your goal is to be ready to go at the moment the sod is delivered.

   How to Lay Sod

   Laying sod is best done on a cloudy, cool day when the soil is not excessively hot or dry. If you have a perfectly rectangular yard, try to plan the layout so that the outside edges of the lawn all have full-width strips of sod. The reason is that the sod on the edges is the most likely to dry out. By starting on the edges, you ensure that the edges will at least have sod strips of the full width, making them less likely to dry out. When you get to the center, sod widths may have to be trimmed in order to fit in, but it's better for these partial strips to be on the interior, where they are protected.

   With yards that are irregular or have curved edges, start the installation on the most visible straight edge, such as where the lawn abuts a sidewalk or driveway.

8. Moisten the Soil

   Just prior to beginning the installation of sod, rake the surface with a leaf rake to slightly loosen it, then moisten the entire area with a fine mist of water. Never install sod on extremely hot or dry soil.

9. Lay the First Row

   It is best to start installation on a lawn edge that is highly visible, such as where it adjoins a sidewalk. In this way, any partial strips will lie on the far side of the lawn, where they are less visible.

   Begin on the outer edges, unrolling a roll of sod on the far left-hand side, then another on the far right-hand side (or vice versa). After laying these two rolls of sod, work your way in toward the center with your next strips.

   A single roll of sod may not be long enough to cover the whole length of the lawn. This means you will have to lay separate rolls, end to end, pressing the ends firmly together so that they abut tightly, but without overlapping.

   Where rolls need to be trimmed, a sharp, straight-edged spade or garden knife is the best tool.
   

10. Lay Second Row

    For the strips of sod in the adjacent row, make sure you stagger the ends of sod rolls so that the seams do not line up. The best way to achieve this is by cutting the first roll in half, which ensures that the end joints will be staggered.

    Take care to make sure the edges of adjoining strips are tightly butted, but not buckled over overlapped.
    

11. Finish the Installation

    Continue laying sod across the lawn, making sure end seams are offset between rows. Curved edges can be trimmed with a garden knife or sharp spade. Try to avoid short or narrow strips, as these tend to dry out too quickly.

    Tip

    When laying sod on slopes, lay the roll horizontally, perpendicular to the direction of the slope. The strips should be anchored in place with landscape staples or wooden stakes for several weeks while the sod is establishing roots. And sod on slopes will need more frequent watering, as water sheds faster on slopes than on flat areas.

12. Fix Low Spots

    Inspect the overall installation for low spots. If a strip of sod appears too low, place some topsoil under it to bring it up to the proper level.
    

13. Roll the New Lawn

    When you are done laying sod, it is time to use the roller again. Push it over the sod to press it down firmly against the soil. This removes air pockets, promoting good contact with the soil and allowing your sod's roots to go to work more quickly.
    

14. Care for the Sod

    Water the lawn thoroughly every day for a couple of weeks, checking periodically to ensure the proper amount of water. Pay particular attention to the edges of the strips, which are prone to drying out as the sod is becoming established.

    Watering new sod is not about just getting the grass blades wet; it is what's underneath that really counts. When you install new sod, all that you've really done is laid down a "green rug" on top of the ground. The idea now is for that rug to send down roots and establish itself. For this to happen, the part of the sod that is in contact with the ground must be kept moist, especially during the first few days.

    At the same time, it's important not to overwater the new grass. To check for proper watering, peel up a corner of a sod strip (it won't damage the grass), and feel the exposed soil; it should be damp but not wet or muddy.

    About one month after installation, give your new lawn a feeding with traditional high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer. If the weather allows it, give it a second feeding 30 to 60 days after the first—or early in the spring, if you live in a cold-winter region.

    Tip

    When you first start mowing your new sod lawn, set the mower at a relatively high blade height to avoid scalping any areas that are uneven. After three or four mowings, the lawn should be fully settled and you can mow at the normal height.

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